Thursday, August 18, 2005

Angel's Crest August 14, 2005
One of the last major routes on Ryan and Dave's tick list.
The Angels Crest is the route up the prominent arete just south of the North Gully and north of the Sheriff's Badge on the Stawamus Chief in Squamish. The climbing is mostly quite easy (5.7-5.9) with a few 5.10a and 5.10b pitches which are not very sustained. The best pitch would be the 2nd pitch up a diagonal crack (5.10b). The other stellar pitch is pitch 12 with exposure and an awkward off-width section (5.10a). Pitch 9 up the Lower Acrophobe tower was another memorable pitch. The other 10s and 9's were all good. Some poor easier and dirty sections and an awkward jaunt around the Upper Acrophobe tower but overall a very good climb.

Pitch 1 up the tree




Pitch 2 up the sweet crack




Pitch 6. 5.10a but only one tricky move.



Pitch 9. Great exposure up the towers.



Upper pitches. Another part on the harder 12th pitch.



Pitch 11. Dave getting psyched up.



View from pitch 11. The haze is smoke from the Lilloet forest fires.



The pitch 13 squeeze. The most awkward section of the route.



Dave on the summit.



Ryan on the summit.
Quite the view!

Then a quick run down the trail to Wendy's.
A great day on a great route.

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